
TO T.S. Khoo, the strong men of the past were not
the body builders, boxers or bouncers.
Rather, it was the humble, sometimes
scrawny-looking hawker who made their mark on him.
"The hawkers worked so hard for their
money," said TS.
"Can you imagine, every day, they walked for
miles about the streets, carrying all that
paraphernalia, - from huge jars, to hot oil - and all
they got at the end of the day was $1 or
$2.
He remembers how the hawkers would climb up the
steep road leading to his house in Devonshire Road -
peddling food that ranged from char kway teow
to popiah.
"It could also be dangerous - especially for
the fella selling yew cha kway,
said T.S.
"He would be carrying all that hot oil, plus
all his utensils - and climb up that steep road to
our house. Just to earn one or two cents."
"That was how cheap things were in those
days.
T.S. also remembers the hawker who would come
bearing ikan bertok,
a kind of fresh-water fish.
"He would carry two big jars - the kind used
for bathing - and the jars would be full of water and
all that fish, and he would ply the streets from
morning to night."
"We would buy the fish - at six to seven
cents for about ten fish - and throw them into the
well. Most families owned their own well in those
days."
"Wed then feed the fish with all kinds
of fats, such as bak pok (pork lard).
"As the fish grew fatter, it would develop a
thin layer of fat between its fins and the flesh.
After a few weeks or months, the fish would be fat
enough to eat.
Ikan bertok was a greyish black fish the
size of a palm's length, that had lots of bones.
"The bones were terrible! said
T.S.
"It would take a person half an hour just to
eat one fish; you have to keep feeling the bones with
your tongue!
"I remember my mother's mother used to joke:
before you eat the fish, you better write your will!
"But it was very delicious, especially when
you masak assam (a Peranakan dish, hot and
spicy gravy) or masak pedas (hot gravy); it
tastes very lemak (rich and savoury)
The fish, being extremely hardy, was hard to kill,
too.
"You had to grab them, stick a chopstick into
its mouth, and bang its head on the floor, or knock
them unconscious. That was the only way to kill
them," said T.S.
"These fish are so hardy, they can survive
even if theyre out of the water for six to
eight hours."
Ikan bertok comes from Thailand, or the
padi fields of Northern Malaya. They are padi-field
fish, used by farmers to keep away the mosquitoes and
the larvae.
It used to be sold at the Kandang Kerbau Market,
said T.S., but is no longer available in Singapore.
T.S. Khoo's life:
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